How we cite our quotes: (Chapter.Paragraph)
Quote #7
Passivity on the part of client had thus been encouraged throughout our expedition. (12.37)
This is one major problem with modern commercial expeditions. Instead of building a team based on climbing skill and group chemistry, Hall and his compatriots fill their teams with the highest bidders, many of whom have no idea what they're doing.
Quote #8
Although the Russian had summitted Everest twice before without gas, and Lopsang thrice, I was surprised Fischer had given them permission to guide the peak without it. (13.25)
In particular, Boukreev gets too caught up in romantic notions of "pure climbing" to focus on his clients. One can debate the ethics of bottled oxygen until the cows come home, but it's crucial that guides use supplemental oxygen so they can better assist their clients. After all, you never know when your strength and experience is going to be needed.
Quote #9
Perhaps the simplest way to reduce future carnage would be to ban bottled oxygen except for emergency medical use. (21.28)
That would be nice, but not very likely. The truth is that bottled oxygen (and other technological implements) will continue to be used on Everest because climbs are big money for the Nepalese government. Keep dreaming, Krakauer.